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| JSC Speed's 2007 Mazdaspeed3 Project Car |
| Because so many new parts have become available for the application, we have decided to start Project Mazdaspeed3 as a 'test mule' to install and review as many parts and brands as possible and report our findings. Keep in mind that this project is a daily driven car, so all of the reviews will reflect how the parts we tested stand up through real-world driving. Check Project Mazdaspeed3 frequently for dyno and road test information as we install and test each performance upgrade. |
Stock Specifications:
Engine: MZR 2.3 Liter Direct Injection Spark Ignition (DISI) turbocharged and intercooled.
Stock Output (Mfr.): 263 horsepower, 280 ft/lb torque.
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Suspension: MacPherson Strut (front), E-Type Multilink (rear)
Curb Weight: 3153lbs. |
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Defi BF Boost Gauge & Control Unit: In my opinion, a boost gauge is a must on any factory or aftermarket turbocharged car. A well visible, quality gauge will allow for instant boost feedback and can instantly notify the driver of a boost leak or overboost condition. I decided that the drivers side air vent would be the perfect place to mount a 60mm Defi boost gauge. I tapped the boost line at the bypass valve connection, mounted the boost sensor to my battery box, and ran the sensor line into the cabin through the firewall with the hood latch cable. Then I went to work the vent with a dremel tool, carefully removing just enough plastic material to snugly hold the 60mm gauge. I tapped the necessary power sources at the interior fuse box, which was very easy to access by removing the plastic hatch under the glove box. One tip to note: connect both the illumination and the switched power to the same source. This ensures that the gauge will be illuminated and visible whenever the car is running. I decided to mount my control unit inside the glove box to keep it hidden yet easily accessible. The result, as you can see, is an attractive gauge install that matches the OEM interior gauges perfectly! |
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TurboXS Cold Air Intake: The first intake that I tested on the Mazdaspeed3 was the TurboXS cold air unit. Unlike most other units on the market, the TurboXS is a single piece pipe, allowing for better interior flow and an easier install. Constructed of polished aluminum, TurboXS even polished the interior welds to a smooth even finish. Unit comes with a bracket that mounts to one of the transmission bolts, a 45 degree silicone elbow and a replacement crankcase vent hose. Also included are the necessary brackets needed to relocated the fuel pump ballast. The TurboXS cold air intake really wakes the car up and gives the car the extra grunt that it should have come with from the factory. It also allows you to get rid of the bulky stock air box, which will come in handing when working on the car and doing future installs. |
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TurboXS Turboback Exhaust System: Once I had the intake on, the next obvious step was to swap out the restrictive downpipe and catback system, so I decided to go with the TurboXS full turboback exhaust system. The TurboXS TBE features a bellmouth downpipe and deletes both catalytic converters out of the system. The install was pretty straightforward as turboback installs go-- it was a bit tricky getting the stock pieces out of the car, especially the downpipe bolts. However, once the stock system was removed, the TurboXS system bolted right on without issue. One word of warning: to remove the stock catback you do need to either cut the pipe or drop the rear suspension (thanks Mazda). Make sure you are ok with this before attempting any catback install. The TurboXS catback section deletes the factory muffler so this exhaust was LOUD to say the least. To hear it just click on the video link to the left.
Power Gains:
19whp & 15ft/lbs |
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AEM Cold Air Intake: I decided to be a bit more versatile and test out the new AEM cold air intake for the Mazdaspeed3 as well, which is still currently on the car. What many people do not know is that AEM actually manufactures the Mazdaspeed brand cold air intake and the two parts are almost identical with a few important differences. The AEM version includes an air straightener insert that is installed in the piping before the MAF sensor. This ensures that the intake air flows properly over the MAF sensor and ECU retain the proper factory fuel trims. The AEM version also includes a much larger air filter, possibly the biggest I have ever seen on a cold air intake. This intake was a bit of a tricky install compared to the TurboXS mainly because it is actually two pipes that need to adjusted perfectly to fit correctly in the tight engine compartment, while still allowing for enough fender space for the massive filter. So far, the AEM cold air intake has endured over 3,000 miles on Project MS3 without a hitch. The larger filter also adds a sporty turbo spool and bpv medley to the normal engine and exhaust note. Overall a very high quality part, as only you would expect from AEM. |
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HKS Hi-Power Catback Exhaust: After driving for a few weeks with the muffler-less TurboXS catback exhaust, it became obvious that I needed a change. While TurboXS sounded great, it was just too much for a daily highway commute. After going over my other options I decided on the HKS Hi-Power as a replacement, which incorporates a rather sizable muffler. The install was very basic, the HKS uses standard 2 bolt flanges to connect each of its three exhaust sections and bolted up to my TurboXS stealthback perfectly. The result is a much more mellow exhaust tone (yet still quite aggressive) that is very tolerable for extended hatchback freeway cruising. |
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MSD Dashhawk: For any modified car with a CAN-bus ECU system, the MSD Dashhawk is an invaluable tool. It plugs directly into the OBDII port under the dash and can be set to read literally any sensor that is wired directly into the ECU-- anything you can think of from ambient air temp to fuel injector duty cycle. The dashhawk can also log up to five parameters simultaneously for up to 90 seconds. Depending on your model car, there are also model specific Parameter IDs (or PIDS) available for free download on the MSD website. If you car is like the MS3 and has an onboard wideband 02 sensor, the Dashhawk can even be set to display real time wideband AFRs. It also functions as a performance timer (0-60 and quarter mile), triple stage shift light, can read and clear CEL codes, and can be custom backlit to match your interior lighting. I mounted my dashhawk near my windshield, behind my main gauge cluster and for daily driving I have it set to read out AFR, boost/vacuum, manifold air temp, and fuel pressure. I really consider this a must have 'mod' if you are serious about upgrading a newer style CAN-bus equipped street car. |
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Hallman Pro RX Manual Boost Controller: For most turbo cars, adding a manual boost controller takes a matter of 10 minutes, removing the stock solenoid and plumbing the MBC line. Not in the MS3 however. Due to the 'hidden' turbo and tight engine bay, installing a MBC is a much more time consuming affair. To even get to the turbo you need to remove the intercooler cover, intercooler, battery, ECU, battery box and if you have large hands, you will probably want to take off the turbo inlet as well. The stock K04 turbo is also a bit nontraditional- the compressor nipple has a restrictor pill built directly into it and the wastegate actuator has TWO nipples instead of the standard one. Because of these little features, not all brand MBCs will work configured in the same way. To hook up my Hallman, I removed the vacuum hose from the upper wastegate nipple to the boost control solenoid, as well as the hose from the compressor nipple to the lower wastegate nipple. I then capped off both the compressor, upper wastegate and boost control solenoid input nipples. For a boost source I tapped the BPV line from the intake manifold and then ran the MBC outlet to the lower wastegate nipple. This configuration works perfectly. The stock boost control system was a bit laggy and suffered from boost spikes up to 20psi when only running a max boost of 15.5psi. With the Hallman now taking care of my boost control needs, the car is now running a solid 17.5psi max boost with absolutely no spikes or surges. The turbo lag has also been significantly reduced, my little K04 now spools up faster and holds boost much more efficiently. For the money, a Hallman boost controller is a great upgrade even if you aren't planning on running higher than stock boost levels. |
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| HKS Limited Edition Black SSQV Blow-Off Valve/ATP MS3 flange: When I saw the HKS 'Limited Edition' black bypass valve, I knew that I wanted upgrade the flimsy plastic valve that has been known to leak of the Mazdaspeed3. The only problem is that there is not a Mazdaspeed specific kit for the Limited Edition version and to install it would require a good bit of elbow grease. The ATP MS3 specific flange is needed to adapt the universal valve to the intercooler on the 3. Installing the C-Clip from the universal valve to the ATP flange was by far the most frustrating part of the process- if you attempt this make sure you get a good set of the proper sized C-Clip pliers. You also need to make sure that the bypass valve is rotated to the proper position on the flange (which can be seen in the photos, left) or the valve will make contact with the hood when its closed. Another thing that is necessary is to 'reclock' the vacuum nipple on the valve to the 5 O'clock position so that the manifold pressure source hose does not rub. Even when reclocked, the hose still rubbed a bit so I used a Dremel tool to shave away some of the plastic material where the hose was making contact. Because of the inherent MAF issues when running a atmospheric blow-off valve, I decided to get the HKS 29mm recirculation fitting and run the HKS in recirculation mode. Because the new valve changes the positioning of the fitting, modification to the stock rubber recirculation hose is necessary, but that isn't anything that a trip to Home Depot can't fix. I used a small length of copper piping and some hose clamps to extend the recirculation hose into the proper position. Last but not least, the intercooler cover does need to be trimmed slightly in order to reinstall correctly and clear the HKS valve. I did notice a slight difference in boost response on the car with the HKS valve installed, but overall I consider this an aesthetic mod. In full recirculation mode with the AEM cold air intake, the HKS valve is surprisingly loud, to the point where many people think it is a full 100% venting valve! I would definitely recommend this valve if you are looking for the sound of a VTA blow-off valve but don't want to deal with all the negative drivability issues that they can cause. If color isn't important to you, I would say go for the Mazdaspeed3 specific HKS valve, but if you HAVE to have the limited edition black, keep in mind all the extra little tasks involved. |
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| more write ups and reviews coming soon! |
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